This magazine is edited for people interested in food. It explores the authentic cuisines of the world, tracks recipes and ingredients to their places of origin and illuminates their history, traditions and local flavors.
ORIGINS
Oceans and Evolution
FOREWORD
An Underwater Endeavor • IS CULTIVATING KELP THE WAY TO SAVE OUR OCEANS AND SLOW DOWN CLIMATE CHANGE? BREN SMITH IS BETTING THE FARM ON IT
Sweet Succulents • Briny sea strawberries were one chef’s gateway to foraging on the Chilean coast
Where There’s Smoke • A Scottish fishing village’s tradition endures
Mussel Memory • Dramatic tides make a mysterious disappearing act out of France’s moules de bouchot
Bitten by the Bug • Australians love these oddly shaped lobsters
In a Dry Place by the Sea • Outside Cape Town, a restaurant adapts to drought
The Pepper Sauce Ladies of Nevis • On this island, fruity, fiery sauce is a cottage enterprise
The Menaica Nets of Italy’s Cilento Coast
The Almond Wood Canoes of Sumba
Family-Produced Fish Sauce in Phú Quoc, Vietnam
“Crabbing” Dinner Cruises in Karachi’s Keamari Harbor
Katsuobushi on Japan’s Ise-Shima Peninsula
Shrimp Baiting Off James Island
Chinatown’s Best-Kept Secret • In Chinese cooking, dried seafood gives sought-after texture and flavor to stir-fries, soups, and more.
Memories of a Middle Eastern Fish Fry • A chef from Nazareth revives her family’s traditional Friday dinners in New York
Peruvian Ceviche • In Lima, finer fish cuts, bolder hot-sour bases, and unrestrained creativity set this dish apart
The Feast of the Single Fish • Clear some space in the fridge, because breaking down one (very big) cod from nose to fin is the path to recipes and flavors you’ll never get from any pre-cut fillet
Whole Fish Game Plan • There’s an ideal use for each and every piece
Waking the Dead • In Chinatowns worldwide, bins of dried seafood are a familiar sight. These shriveled, flattened, and petrified ingredients are prized in Chinese cooking, where they’re usually reconstituted before using, and especially beloved in the Cantonese and other coastal regions. Some, such as sea cucumbers and abalone, are costly delicacies with complex preparations and slithery or gelatinous textures that require an appreciation for mouthfeel. But for everyday Chinese cooking, more-accessible ingredients, from dried shrimp to salted fish, can add an interesting flavor and rich umami to soups and stir-fries.
OCEANS & ISLANDS
A DELICIOUS PLAGUE • WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN A DELICACY BECOMES AN UNCHECKED EPIDEMIC? GET EATING
UNI BEYOND THE RAW BAR
Strange Magic • A SPECK IN THE ATLANTIC, MADEIRA IS A ROLLER COASTER OF RUGGED CLIFFS, MICROCLIMATES, AND MIND-BOGGLING WINES
Five Madeiras to Try
Eating and Exploring Madeira • All the winemaking happens in Funchal, but to experience the island itself, you have to leave the city. There’s no wrong direction—you can lap the island in a day
Joshua Skenes Has a Fleet of Fishermen and an Abalone Farmer on Retainer • THE CHEF OF TASTINGMENU TEMPLE SAISON GOES THE DISTANCE TO GET THE GOODS
UNDER THE PALMS • ON THE THAI ISLAND OF KO YAO NOI, NO DISH IS COMPLETE WITHOUT A HIT OF COCONUT
The GREENHORN of Little PECONIC BAY • THE BOOMING DEMAND FOR OYSTERS MEANS THAT DITCHING OFFICE LIFE TO FARM THEM WAS (PROBABLY) A GOOD DECISION
In the Kitchen with Oysters • You can do more with these mollusks than eat them raw. From broiling to frying, here are four ways to sharpen your shell game
THE OLD WOMAN AND THE SEA • IN SALVADOR, BRAZIL, A FESTIVAL HONORING IEMANJÁ, THE GODDESS OF THE SEA,...